Ottery St Mary in Devon: A Practical Guide for Visitors

Ottery St Mary, often simply called “Ottery”, sits in the Otter Valley and is around twenty minutes east of Exeter. The town stretches along a single main street, with side roads and footpaths dropping towards the river. Most visitors arrive by car, park once, and get around on foot. Shops, cafés, and pubs are clustered close together, which keeps the centre active during the day without feeling busy.

This guide covers Ottery St Mary attractions, walks, history, and food, focusing on what you actually see and do when you arrive.

What to see in Ottery St Mary: the historic St Mary’s Church

St Mary’s Church stands just off the main street and is impossible to miss once you’re in town. It was founded in the 14th century by John Grandisson, Bishop of Exeter, and built on a scale that reflects Ottery’s importance at the time. The design closely resembles Exeter Cathedral, which surprises many first-time visitors.

The interior is open and bright, with high stone vaulting and clear sightlines. The astronomical clock still works and draws steady interest rather than crowds. Information boards explain how the church functioned as part of the bishop’s estate, which helps place Ottery St Mary history in a wider Devon context.

The churchyard is also a through-route for locals walking between the centre and nearby streets. That daily use keeps the building grounded as part of the town rather than a sealed-off landmark.

Ottery St Mary history and literature: Coleridge, Rowling, and the town

Ottery St Mary’s literary links are well documented and mostly understated on the ground. Samuel Taylor Coleridge was born here in 1772, the son of the town’s vicar. He attended the local school before leaving for London, and his birthplace is marked within the town. An annual Coleridge Memorial Festival reflects this connection without turning it into a year-round attraction.

The town also appears in discussions of J K Rowling’s early life. She lived in Ottery St Mary as a child and attended school locally. The fictional village of Ottery St Catchpole in the Harry Potter books is often described as being loosely inspired by the area, although there are no official sites or themed experiences.

Walks in Ottery St Mary: riverside routes through the Otter Valley

Walks in Ottery St Mary begin close to the centre and require little preparation. Footpaths lead down to the River Otter within a few minutes, passing gardens, allotments, and old mill sites. The paths are well maintained and mostly flat, which explains their popularity with dog walkers and families.

Routes heading north follow open fields and small bridges, while longer walks run south towards Budleigh Salterton and the Otter Estuary. Anglers use several stretches of river, and runners favour the firmer paths closer to town.

The river corridor is also known for wildlife. Beavers were reintroduced to the wider Otter catchment in recent years, and their activity is visible in places through gnawed trees and altered banks. Sightings are occasional rather than guaranteed, but herons and waterfowl are easy to spot.

If you want coastal walking, Teignmouth offers seafront paths and longer clifftop routes. Fresh Escapes’ guide to things to do in Teignmouth works well alongside a stay in Ottery.

Where to eat in Ottery St Mary: pubs, restaurants, and local food spots

Eating out in Ottery St Mary is geared towards residents rather than visitors, which keeps menus familiar and opening hours predictable. Most places are within walking distance of the centre, and booking ahead is sensible at weekends.

The Fat Otter

Located on the main street, The Fat Otter serves modern British food with seasonal changes to the menu. It’s one of the town’s more popular evening options, with steady demand on Friday and Saturday nights. Booking ahead is advisable.

Hare & Hounds

Just outside the centre, the Hare & Hounds attracts walkers returning from the countryside as well as drivers passing through. The menu focuses on classic pub dishes, and Sunday lunches are particularly busy. Parking is easier here than in town.

Jeffery’s Eatery

Jeffery’s Eatery is small and well regarded, with a limited number of tables. The menu prioritises careful cooking over variety, and advance booking is recommended. It suits quieter evenings.

Coldharbour Field Kitchen

Set on the edge of town, Coldharbour Field Kitchen is best visited during the day. It focuses on simple dishes made with local produce and works well as a lunch stop after a walk.

Local markets

Regular markets, such as the Community Market, add another layer to the town’s food scene, selling local produce, bread, and cheese. Devon cider also features widely, reflecting the surrounding orchards.

Planning a visit to Ottery St Mary: transport, timing, and events

Ottery St Mary is easiest to reach by car, using the A30 and local roads into town. Several public car parks serve the centre, although spaces fill quickly on weekday mornings. There’s no train station in town. Exeter and Honiton provide the nearest rail links, with bus connections onward.

The town is active throughout the year, but early November brings its most disruptive event. The Ottery St Mary Tar Barrels involves locals carrying burning tar barrels through the streets on 5 November, with road closures and large crowds in the town centre. If you plan to attend, arrive early. If not, avoid the centre that evening.

Other events include Pixie Day in mid-June, when local children dress as pixies and re-enact a long-standing folk story involving the church bells. It’s a daytime event that briefly changes traffic and footfall in the centre.

Ottery St Mary as a Devon base: where to stay and how to plan

Ottery St Mary works well as a base for exploring East Devon rather than as a single-focus destination. It offers walkable routes, everyday facilities, and easy access to Exeter, the coast, and nearby countryside, including the East Devon National Landscape.

Fresh Escapes offers a range of accommodation across East Devon and surrounding coastal areas, making it straightforward to stay near Ottery St Mary while travelling further afield. If you’re planning a Devon trip that balances town life with walking and day trips, it’s a practical place to build around.

Browse the Fresh Escapes collection to find the perfect place for your East Devon adventure.